Here’s the major difference between Bulb Fibre and Compost:
The difference between the two is that bulb fibre is deliberately designed for just bulbs, while compost is generated naturally, and can be used for a host of plants.
What is Bulb Fibre?
Bulb Fibre is an exceptionally planned manure for developing bulbs. The contrast between bulb fibre and multipurpose fertilizer is that bulb fibre has an open and free depleting structure so the bulbs don’t decay.
Bulb Fibre has not many or no supplements as bulbs don’t need them on the off chance that they are just being developed at present moment in holders, and it has ‘sugar like’ content for the soil which is normally charcoal.
The charcoal holds the manure back from getting acrid in the event that it is in an encased holder with no seepage openings, which is significant when developing inside.
What do I utilize Bulb Fibre for?
Bulb fibre is utilized for planting bulbs into pots and compartments. It may very well be utilized for both outside bulbs like Crocus, Muscari, Tulips and Narcissus and for indoor bulbs like arranged Hyacinths and Paperwhite Narcissus. It isn’t utilized for planting bulbs in the ground.
Compost is a humus-rich rotting product made from organic waste. The processes of humification and mineralization that take place during composting are similar to the formation of humus in the soil.
However, it is a deliberate process, wanted and produced by humans .
The difference between the two is that bulb fibre is deliberately designed for just bulbs, while compost is generated naturally, and can be used for a host of plants.
Further into the article, we would be learning more about these factors.
What is allowed on the compost?
Before composting, shred twigs and branches with a chopper.
Basically: The compost heap is not a bio bin! Not all waste that occurs in the kitchen or garden is suitable for ending up on the compost . Therefore, every time you want to compost waste, you should ask yourself: What is the compost ?
The mixing ratio of the individual waste is important because the microorganisms need the correct carbon-nitrogen ratio to decompose the waste.
Therefore, make sure that you always have a certain balance between moist and dry, coarse and fine as well as carbon-rich (leaves, tree pruning , shrub cuttings ) and nitrogen-rich (organic waste, grass clippings, coffee and tea residues) materials.
Compost: what is allowed in?
In addition to the right mixture, it is also important what goes on the compost. Because not all waste is good for compost. In principle, all organic and decomposable household and garden waste can be composted:
- leaves
- rotten fruit
- raw fruit and vegetable scraps
- Lawn clippings (slightly dried)
- Flowers, balcony – and house plants
- Cutting trees, bushes and hedges – but if possible, shredded
In small quantities on the compost:
- Eggshells
- Coffee grounds and tea bags
- Wild herbs (without seeds)
- Wood ash, sawdust and sawdust
- Newsprint and cardboard (only uncoated and not printed in color)
Compost accelerator
Good things take time: However, composting can also be accelerated well
Practical tip : To get the rotting going , it is worth adding a little compost accelerator to the compost after each shift or every 10 cm.
Compost: what is not allowed in?
Not recommended are:
- Pineapple peels
- Banana peels
- Citrus fruits and their peels
- Cut flowers from the supermarket
- Leaves of chestnut trees, beeches, oaks, plane trees, poplars, walnut trees and cherry laurel
Completely unsuitable are:
- ash
- cat litter
- all color prints
- Varnishes, paint residues
- Leftovers from pasta
- Glass , metal and plastics
- Meat, fish, cheese and bones
- Plants with viral and fungal diseases
- Medicines, chemicals, batteries and used oils
- Milk and juice packaging as well as composite packaging materials
- seed-bearing weeds, particularly stubborn root weeds
Layer the compost properly
For composting to be successful, however, it is not just the content that counts, but also how it is layered. With the correct layering, the following applies: Try makes you smart! Every gardener has his own recipe for this. The following points are important:
Mix, mix, mix : Whether you throw everything in a mess or create clean layers of leaves, grass clippings, organic waste and the like is not important – it is important, however, that you never layer too much of just one material, higher than 10 cm shouldn’t be a shift.
Airy and loose : To prevent fine material such as grass clippings from compacting, add a certain amount of coarse material – such as branches.
Chopping : Even coarse material should, however, be chopped as small as possible. 5 cm is a good guideline here – the material should not be coarser, otherwise it will only rot badly!
Why and how you should move your compost
Anyone who owns a compost knows that valuable organic fertilizer can be produced with little effort.
How do I compost properly?
More and more hobby gardeners who want to produce valuable humus from their vegetable waste are asking themselves this question. The ripe compost , the gardener’s black gold , is particularly popular in spring preparation. But even during the growing season, the plants — whether vegetables, fruit or ornamental plants – enjoy the natural fertilizer.
If the rotting process runs optimally, you can count on fresh compost after about six weeks, from the sixth month the valuable humus soil is created.
Tip 1: place compost optimally
In order to be able to compost properly, the location for the compost is very important. A place in partial shade is ideal, for example under a deciduous tree or a shrub. Make sure that the compost heap is not exposed to the blazing sun – the material dries out too quickly here.
At the same time, a light protection against precipitation is recommended so that the material is not completely soaked in rainy periods.
The compost needs soil as the subsurface. This is the only way for microorganisms such as earthworms to penetrate.
Tip 2: the right waste to compost
In principle, all vegetable garden and kitchen waste that is not significantly contaminated with harmful substances is suitable as a material for the compost.
This usually includes lawn clippings, cut branches, withered parts of plants, vegetable and fruit remains.
Coffee and tea filters and eggshells are also good compost material. The peels of tropical fruits such as bananas or oranges can be composted in small quantities. On the other hand, parts of plants that are infected by certain pathogens such as coal hernia or fire blight pose a problem . It is better to dispose of these in household waste.
Tip 3: shred the material before composting
Another important point: the better the material is shredded before composting, the faster it rots. It is worthwhile to first send woody waste such as branches and twigs through a garden shredder . So-called quiet shredders have proven themselves.
Chopping breaks up the fibers of the wooden parts so that microorganisms can penetrate better and decompose the material.
Bulky material is best shredded to a size of about five to ten centimeters – this way it’s still big enough to provide adequate ventilation in the compost. You can use the lawn mower to shred leaves.
Tip 4: Pay attention to a balanced mixture
It’s all in the mix! Every gardener who wants to compost properly should remember this saying. Because the microorganisms involved in the rotting process enjoy a good supply of nutrients from the most diverse source material possible.
It is important that a balanced mixture of wet, green material and dry, woody parts is guaranteed in the compost.
For example, while the grass clippings provide a lot of nitrogen (N), the woody materials and leaves primarily supply the microorganisms with carbon (C). You can either layer the different materials in thin layers or mix them together in the compost.
Tip 5: Ensure optimal moisture when composting
An optimal moisture balance also plays a crucial role in composting. On the one hand, the microorganisms need sufficient water to be active at all.
On the other hand, the rotting material must not be moistened too much, otherwise air is lacking and the compost mass can rot. As a rule of thumb, the compost should only be as wet as a squeezed sponge.
If it does not rain for a long time, it is advisable to moisten the compost with rainwater. In heavy rain you should cover it with compost protection fleece, straw or reed mats.
Tip 6: Consciously use additives
Compost starters are usually not necessary with a balanced mix of materials, but they can be helpful to improve the rotting process.
Organic gardeners like to use extracts from wild herbs such as nettle to harmonize the freshly made compost material.
So that the rotting process gets off to a good start, a few shovels of finished compost or garden soil can be mixed in. The contained microorganisms serve as “inoculation material” for the new compost. If desired, mineral compost accelerators can also be sprinkled over the waste.
Tip 7: Move compost regularly
Even if it involves a bit of work: Moving and loosening the compost once or twice a year is also important if you want to compost properly.
Because by moving, materials come from the edge to the inside, where the rotting process is most intensive.
In addition, ventilation is improved and there are fewer oxygen-poor areas in the compost. The first repositioning of the year is recommended in early spring. The stage of rotting can be checked with a simple cress test.
Conclusion
Bulb fibers are good for planting bulb plants. They are mostly factory produced, and sold.
While compost is natural fertilizer that could be processed from organic waste. In this article, we have discussed the difference between the two, and their properties.
